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The Transcendent 2000 Module  (Module-fying /Desktop-fying the T2k)

Well, I've done it! Removed the keyboard and made the T2k a module!


What I've Done

Well, it'd be easier if I just saw off the original side panels. But since a friend (Hi!) showed interest in my removed keyboard, i thought i should try and save the original wood frame.
  1. Need new side wood panels.
  2. Need new bottom panel.
  3. Need bending the front sloped panel.
  4. Need extra panel to cover remaining front.
Well, I've done 1, 2 & 3. Still thinking what to do with 4.
Side & Bottom Panels

I just so happened to have some IKEA 'Billy' 22" (562mm) shelves, bought them for used as wall mounting shelves (rather than the Billy bookcase). It seems the width of the T2k is about the same, so i thought i could use it as a new bottom panel.

Needed to cut 2 sides, did them, messed up the size. Realized if I remove the original metal support for the bottom panel, i could fit the new bottom panel to the back panel, rather than to the support. So i remade the new sides. They're about 230mm x 125 mm.
The bottom panel needs to be shorten, it's depth is 263mm but i needed 230mm, so i just saw off a bit of the longer side of the shelf and make it 562mm x 230mm.
NOTE: The new sides don't fit exactly to the TOP or BACK panel. Because of the new bottom panel, it's a few mm more, but it's OK, because the original screw holes will align to the centre of the wood.


So 1st, i tried fitting the bottom part - the power supply PCB is slightly in the way, so I need to chip off a little bit on the end of the bottom panel. Then it fits ad I screwed the back to the new bottom panel.
Then tried fitting the sides - need to trim some bits inside because again back panel has some parts that get in the way.
Then i fitted the side panels, put the top panel back on and screwed them all together. Sounds simple, isn't it? I actually went to bed after doing that, thinking i got it nearly done.

PCB Fitting
The hardest bit was actually fitting the PCB. the original PCB metal support is too long. In fact the PCB is exactly the same width of the IKEA Billy board (562mm), so the original support screw holes are in the way.
So I bent them 90 degrees, and drilled holes on the side panel and used 4 screws to support it side way instead.


Front Panel Bending
Well, nearly there. The last hardest part is to try make the sloped front panel into a right angle. I don't have any metal bending tools, nor do i have any long metal to clamp them together then bend the bugger.
I actually used a heavy duty clamp/spanner tool and tried bending it bit by bit. The result is not as good, but close.

Well, you can see i buggered up the bottom side a little bit, it's 1 to 2 mm too long hence it's sticking out a bit in the front.
Kinda Done (at Least for the time being)

Basically that's about what i have done. I still have to think of what to put in the new front to cover up the hole. Actually, if i'm using it lying flat, i could even put a short 1u 19" rackmount module in there(!)

But I'll probably have it standing - it does look nicer than i thought!

The T2k Module, now sits on my shelves along with other rackmount or non-rackmount gears (including the A.S. SPAWN - thanks Andy!!) !!

So as I've said, it's probably easier to just saw the original side panel and add a bottom panel.
Anyway, it's actually not as bad as i thought, considering i'm no good at wood work. It took me a total of about 6-8 hours (including trial and error i.e. fxxk-ups)....;)



So now, I have a spare T2k Keyboard, complete with side and bottom panels....

Oh, it also includes the keyboard PCB, with 43x 27R4 precision resistors and the 5-pin connector....
- This has now gone to a friend for spares :)



Future Plans (To Do List...)
Well, this is what I've done so far on my T2k, as of 24th November, 2003.
Future plans include:
- adding MIDI, so to make it fully stand-alone midi controllable module
I don't want to add a Synhouse Midi-Jack, because it doesn't support Pitchbend or Portamento (although I have the Onboard Portamento working), and also it doesn't support extra AUX CV's. Putting a Kenton Pro-Solo inside is gonna be a waste, so it's gotta be something smaller, cheaper and has enough controls, maybe one from the modular builders (Analogue system / Analogue Solutions / Oakley MOTM etc) or maybe the small Doepfer Midi-CV converter.... I dunno yet, maybe I'll learnt how to burn PIC and try building one of those PIC Midi2CV's from the web.
- DONE 20th Jan 2004

- sorting out the VCF control
The VCF Pedal input, in fact, the VCF control is somewhat tricky - GOING -12V to +12V, so plugging the AUX CV from any midi-cv converters would only make it sweep from centre of the filter pot to Max, no control from Min <-> Centre.
I'll probably need to study my electronic books a bit more and think up a solution so that i can have full VCF Control under AUX CV / Midi CC.
- DONE 20th Jan 2004

- syncing the Slow Osc (LFO)
This probably can't be done easily, but i might eventually think of a way to put external clock to the bugger.
- more modular in/outs
Maybe eventually, tap some in/outs to the VCO and S&H section etc.....



Next: Adding Midi & Sorting Out the +/- Aux CV to VCF



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