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Powertran Transcendent 2000 |
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| MODS | |
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| Home | Synth Index | Transcendent 2000 | T2k Mods 1 | T2k Mods 2 | T2k Module-fied | T2k Midi | |
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| IEC Mains Plug | Better Signal-to-Noise | LED for Slow Osc Rate| |
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Synths |
| Last Updated: | |
|
Powertran Transcendent 2000 |
|
| MODS | |
|
| Home | Synth Index | Transcendent 2000 | T2k Mods 1 | T2k Mods 2 | T2k Module-fied | T2k Midi | |
|
|
| IEC Mains Plug | Better Signal-to-Noise | LED for Slow Osc Rate| |
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| IEC Mains Plug |
| Well, it came with a flying lead that comes out of a
hole at the back panel. I hated it. So the 1st thing I do (normally to most stuff with flying leads) is to cut the lead up, and install an IEC Mains socket so I could use standard IEC Powercords. |
| OK this requires making a rectangular hole, and it's not easy on metal surfaces. It took me a while to find a cutting tool and it's for standard IEC Socket. It's expensive for such a little tool, but I invested on it because I really prefer IEC sockets. |
| The hand hole cutter tool could be found/purchased on
RS's site, code
543-614 or
541-501, matching IEC Inlet Socket |
| I won't go thru the details here, but this is how it looks like: |
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| Better Signal-to-Noise | ||
| Came across this when searching on info on the T2k at the archives of the Analogue Heaven mailing list. It was posted by Tony from Oakleysound.com. You can view the original message here. | ||
| This is what he wrote: | ||
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It's worth doing
these component changes while you have the hood up. |
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| Well, I didn't have a 10M resistor at the time, nor a 470nF Polyester Cap, so I just did the other resistors. VCO Level has definitely improved. I then got the 10M and installed it. But after the C26 470nF mod, the thumping got a little too much - even adjusting RV22 didn't help. So I switched the cap back to the original one. S-to-N is still better and the T2k is definitely louder and has more rough guts! | ||
| It's not too hard to locate these components, but it did take me awhile looking at the few fainted pages of the schematics... Basically, R129 is right in the middle (top) of the PCB, R80/R81/R82 are on the right, near the "A" & "S" Pots. C26 is somewhere to the left of the middle left, near 4th knob, vertically standing cap. | ||
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| LED for the Slow Osc (LFO) Rate |
| I was thinking if there's a way to sync the Slow Osc to external pulse or maybe one day a midi clock. Kind of beyond me when I looked at the schematics. |
| So I thought, let's see if I could put a flashing LED for the LFO. |
| I found some LFO schematics on the web, and some of them do have an LED indicator for the LFO rate. I adapted the schematics and found the points where you could add to the T2k. |
| Here's what it looks like: |
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| Schematics & Wiring |
| Well, it's the schematics and the stripboard (!) diagram. Well, I dun do custom made PCBs, so I convert everything into stripboard. It's nice, and everyone without PCB making equipment could do it. |
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| The wiring is quite easy and obvious once you know your way round the schematics. I found that you can tap the rate from where it goes to the Filter Sweep Pot (RV18). Good thing is the other side of RV18 goes to 0V ground. So where's the nearest +12V... Found you can tap it off the 2nd wire jumper under R131 on the PCB quite nearby. |
| Here's the PCB diagram with the wiring indications: |
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| Mounting |
| As you can see from the picture above, i mounted the LED underneath the Slow OSC pot. There's enough space for small/short components like LED (but too short for other switches or anything). The small stripboard could be mounted to any of the screws in front of the PCB, near RV18. See below: |
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| Notice I used a 2 pin connector - so that when I remove the Top Panel, I could quickly unplug the connector, so I dun need the hassle of removing the LED every time I take off the panel. |
Next: External CV Tuner and How to Make the Gate/Trigger Work
